Active Ingredient Description

Kojic acid (5-hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-4-pyrone) is a biotechnological active ingredient obtained through the biotransformation of rice carbohydrate by fungi and bacteria, including species of Aspergillus, Penicillium and Acetobacter. Among its various properties, the antimicrobial and copper ion chelating action stands out, the latter being responsible for inhibiting melanogenesis. It is an important non-cytotoxic skin depigmentant that acts by inhibiting tyrosinase through chelation of the copper ion in the active sites of the enzyme, suppressing the tautomerization of dopachrome 5-6-dihydroxyindole--2-carboxylic acid, as well as inhibiting the conversion of o-quinones, norepinephrine and dopamine to the corresponding form of melanin.

The presence of iron in the skin is related to the formation of wrinkles caused by chronic exposure to UV radiation. A study carried out in Japan demonstrated that kojic acid has iron chelating activity, as its topical application before exposure to UV radiation reduced the formation of wrinkles, epidermal hyperplasia, fibrosis of the lower dermis and increased the components of the extracellular matrix. in the upper dermis. These results indicate that kojic acid has anti-wrinkle action and prevents skin photoaging.

Licorice Extract has high antioxidant properties, acts as a free radical scavenger and helps combat the effects of pollution and sun exposure. Due to this property it helps to lighten blemishes, providing uniformity of skin tone.

The encapsulation of this acid allows the stabilization of the formula's components and promotes increased skin permeation, benefiting the depigmenting and anti-aging action of the ingredient. Furthermore, the encapsulated lipid nanoparticles and licorice extract promote skin hydration as they act on lipid replacement and prevent transepidermal water loss.