Insoluble and labile nanoparticles: what are the differences and benefits?
Products from varied areas (chemicals, textiles, pharmaceuticauls, food, cosmetics, among others) may contain encapsulated active ingredients. In the case of cosmetics, the ingredients may be encapsulated in label/biodegradable nanoparticles (liposomes, biopolymerics, and lipids).
The great differential to ensure the expected results of cosmetics is in the particle used in the encapsulation of the active ingredients. Here, we will relate the capsules’ characteristics and main advantages and disadvantages.
Liposomes are very unstable structures, formed by a lipid bilayer that involves the cosmetic active. When liposomes are deposited/placed on a surface, this bilayer quickly opens, which creates several limitations.
From the operational point of view, in the production of cosmetics, the rapid agitation of a reactor and the presence of surfactants in the formula, for example, can cause the liposome to easily open and release the active still in the manufacture of the cosmetic.
Since they are fragile encapsulation systems, they do not guarantee effective protection to the active ingredient, failing to deliver some of the desired objectives with encapsulation.
Lipid and polymeric nanoparticles have a rigid and thicker layer when compared to the structure of liposomes. These more solid structures allow greater protection of encapsulated actives, ensuring its stability throughout the shelf-life of the product, different from liposomes. In addition, biopolymeric and lipid nanoparticles ensure that the system will only open after in contact with specific release triggers. In the case of cosmetic products applied to the skin, it is usually the enzymatic trigger that releases the active only after the permeation on the skin.
Nanovetores' innovative technology uses lipid and biopolymeric particles*. Lipid particles have hydration and high permeation as multifunctionality. Biopolymeric grants, as a multifunctionality, skin firmness and greater capillary adhesion. In the figures below, we can see the efficacy of Nanovetores actives in a short period of use: Nano Nails, Nano Cellulitech, Nanovetor Melaleuca, and Nano Up Lift.
It is noteworthy that these multifunctional characteristics of the particles are not the rule for all actives, each ingredient has its case analyzed, so it is encapsulated with the most appropriate nanoparticle.
Being more stable, biopolymeric and lipid nanoparticles ensure greater control over the active release, with slower degradation and prolonged release of the active ingredient, leading to greater encapsulation efficiency and delivering the expected results of the ingredient.
Not much used in the cosmetics segment, there are also insoluble nanoparticles, or metallic, such as silver and gold nanoparticles, which are widely used in medical and hospital devices due to their antiseptic characteristics. However, metallic nanoparticles must be fixed in their applications, if detached they can cause ecological impact and damage to the human organism, and can also generate bioaccumulation.
*Our encapsulation technology uses particles bigger than 200nm, thus it is not considered nanomaterial according to REACH regulation.
“Nanoestruturas contendo compostos bioativos extraídos de plantas” - Cristiane Franco Codevilla, Maiara Tais Bazana, Cristiane de Bona da Silva, Juliano Smanioto Barin e Cristiano Ragagnin de Menezes.
Revista Ciência e Natura, Santa Maria v.37 Ed. Especial-Nano e Microencapsulação de compostos bioativos e probióticos em alimentos , 2015, Dez. p. 142 – 151.
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