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Challenges in the skincare formulation process: how to overcome them?

The formulation process is not an easy part of Cosmetic product creation. After selecting a new active ingredient with a great mechanism of action to treat acne/reduce wrinkle, or after receiving a marketing report of a trend - between this moment of creativity and actually delivering a final formula, some challenges arise:


1. INCORPORATING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS:


Most active ingredients have strict protocols on how to be incorporated in a cosmetic formula. Essential oils are not soluble in water; the solubility of powders, such as Caffeine and Kojic Acid on the free form, depends on the size of the active particle, pH, temperature and molecule polarity; other active ingredients, such as Minoxidil and Retinol are also difficult to solubilize in the water when in the free form.


Nanovetores solution:

Water-soluble: most of Nanovetores' active ingredients are water-based. This means that they are liquid, and they can easily be incorporated in a base only by simple mixing, below 45°C (113°F).


Highlighted Active Ingredient: NV Retinol

  • Active Ingredient: Retinol.

  • Claims: Depigmentant, anti-aging, and moisturizer.

  • Usage: Primers, creams, masks, gels for the eye area, makeup removers, etc.

  • Stability pH: 2,0 to 7,0

  • Incompatibilities: Sodium Chloride, Ethanol, and other organic solvents.



2. ACHIEVING STABILITY:


Change in formulas' coloration; pH alteration; phase separation and change in scent or fragrance can mean that a formulation is undergoing a chemical reaction or a physical separation.

The most reactive component in a formulation is usually the active ingredient. Proteins, Enzymes, and Vitamins are specifically susceptible to oxidation or degradation, causing alteration on the physical-chemical parameters of the formulation, and also losing efficacy.




A great example is the Ascorbic Acid, the original molecule of Vitamin C, that is highly thermolabile, meaning that it easily oxidates when solubilized in water, causing color alteration on the cosmetic and generating by-products that don't grant the intended efficacy.


Nanovetores solution:

Protection of the active ingredient: By encapsulating the active ingredient, Nanovetores prevents it from reacting with formula components, granting stability. The NV Ascorbic Acid, encapsulated version of the Vitamin C, for example, is 500% more stable than its free form. From the photos of the stability test, it's possible to see that after 38 days of exposure to three different conditions, the coloration of the encapsulated Ascorbic Acid remains white, and the free form undergoes yellowish and brownish alterations.



Highlighted Active Ingredient: NV Ascorbic Acid

  • Active Ingredient: Ascorbic Acid.

  • Claims: Evens skin tone, antioxidant, prevents skin aging, hydration.

  • Usage: Emulsions; Serum; Cream; Lotions; Primers;

  • pH stability: Less than 4.0. Maximum efficiency with pH less than 3.0.

  • Incompatibilities: Ethanol.


3. DELIVERING INNOVATION:


In a highly competitive market with a myriad of Indie Brands and also Traditional ones, the companies look for differentiating their product and deliver high-performance cosmetics. In the same path, customers are more familiar and selective when choosing a cosmetic product.


Nanovetores solution:

Unique encapsulation technology, with control over the capsule release: Nanovetores encapsulation technology grants controlled release of the active ingredient through five specific triggers. For skincare applications, the main release trigger is enzymatic, in which the skin enzymes -proteases and lipases - degrade the capsules material releasing the active ingredient, assuring that the active ingredient remains protected till it reaches the skin.





Highlighted Active Ingredient: Nanovetor Resveratrol

  • Active Ingredient: Trans-Resveratrol and Pomegranate Oil.

  • Claims: Protects from blue light, helps in the treatment of hyperchromia, prevents skin aging.

  • Usage: Emulsions, gels, serums.

  • pH Stability: 3,0 a 6,0

  • Incompatibilities: Ethanol and other organic solvents.


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